Category Archives: A Journey To:

Road Trip To Thames

Auckland to Thames

It takes about one and a half hours to get to Thames. The highway is half an hour of motorway, flat with the usual industrial buildings of varying quality. Basically you see the arse end of everything filled with all the crap  building occupiers don’t want out the front. The remaining hour is rural highway, flat with animals eating grass, and trees.

Roadside Attractions

There is a palpable feel of tragic desperation hanging over some retail businesses. You know the type, fading signage, fit-out last updated in 1950, stock that looks like it has been assembled from local garage sales. When the business is a food outlet it is in some way even worse, is the food last weeks or last months, do they wash the dishes, are these mouse droppings on the floor or mummified fly carcasses. Once you leave the motorway and turn left on the rural road to Thames you have the opportunity, as we did, to visit the place pictured on the left. Further down the road we stopped at the place on the right.

Thames

People in Thames dug lots of holes many years ago and in return for this labour they got gold. This lasted long enough to pay for many grand buildings and to develop a heavy engineering industry. The engineering expertise meant the gold miners could have many big steel things to dig even more holes. Once all the holes were dug the gold ran out and Thames immediately became a place where no one wanted big steel things anymore. Lucky for Thames cars were discovered and the skills developed to make steel stuff could be applied to building Toyota’s instead.

Thames is enjoying a new gold rush, This does not involve mining gold, but a much easier activity, mining Aucklander’s!  Because Thames was once biggish and richish it has a fine collection of run down grand buildings which can be purchased for nothing and rebuilt to look like they are in Ponsonby.  Aucklander’s love this stuff and will spend unending volumes of money in this activity. This expenditure flows into the local economy making Thames a wealthier place. Everyone wins.

So – What Else do you do in Thames?

You ride your bicycle on the railway, which like many railways these days has no tracks. In this way you can get places, achieve fitness and not be flattened by a train.

You practice witchcraft. Thames seems to have an affinity with the occult. There are a large number of practitioners of the dark arts who can help you with life’s challenges.
Eating is also a popular pastime. Thames is blessed with an extraordinary number of large bakery/cafes catering to these with high calorie intake requirements. I did not see any bicycles parked outside these establishments.
Thames has many interesting boutique shops and narrow furniture stores to satisfy expenditure needs. But, what about cruising a mall that would not look out of place in a zombie apocalypse movie. Yes there is one available, admittedly on my visit there were minimal numbers of the undead around but given the quality of the remaining stores this was not surprising.


Thames is a gem. It has all the basic necessities to ensure its residents and visitors have what they need. But the big bonus, which gives it that added zest and makes it more interesting than other towns, is its unique sense of local weirdness. Hopefully this remains as Thames signature dish.

Kerikeri Road Trip

Auckland to Kerikeri

On the road again. Kerikeri is 250 km north of Auckland. Twenty km of good highway, 230km of goat track. Most of the goats are Aucklanders escaping the city for beach settlements where they can pretend they don’t live in Auckland. Think of the Aucklanders as a fungal disease slowly spreading across Northland with no cure.

On the Way

Warkworth has a river, three sets of traffic lights and a new McDonald’s.

Wellsford has a main street with enough traffic to create its own ozone hole and a surprising local enthusiasm for do it yourself surgery.

Whangarei

This is as big as it gets in the north. Whangarei has four lane roads, an actual CBD, a trendy riverside area with a clock museum and bad guys hanging out in the hood. Despite these attractions the goal is Kerikeri so Whangarei will have its time in the sun in a later blog.

Kerikeri

This is a small town with big attributes. It is a middle class european suburb plunked into struggle class brown Northland. It has the obligatory cafe/cinema, weekend farmers market, boutiques with proprietors who do it for fun not money and two supermarkets so upmarket they would fit into the trendiest Auckland suburb. In other words it is nice.
What do they do here? They mostly sell real estate. Kerikeri has more land sharks per resident than anyplace I’ve ever seen. In addition Kerikeri does history, horticulture, the best chocolate in the world and stacking rocks on top of each other.

Scenically there is a lovely river flowing through into an inlet, on the shore of which sit the oldest wooden and the oldest stone buildings in New Zealand. The buildings are interesting in a “wow these buildings are old” kind of way.

Luckily there is also a cafe and a restaurant. You will probably spend more time here than you will examining the providence of the old structures.
If you like living in a trendy upmarket suburb with a 250km commute to Auckland Kerikeri is for you.
I could live there.

The Return Trip

This is a repeat of the up journey but with a detour to:

Waipu – Why not!

This is a settlement of Scottishness rampant with representative symbols. It has a museum featuring Scotts stuff, highland-games, and many pictures of kilt people. It is nice and I understand why the people of Scotland packed up their bagpipes and came here.

Waipu – Auckland

Nothing of interest here….

 

 Wellington Road Trip

Auckland to Wellington Return

Despite the recent earthquake damage Wellington is our destination of choice for a brief holiday before the madness of Christmas engulfs us. The trip is via the main highways with a stop in Taupo on the way down and stops in Whanganui and The Chateau in Tongariro National Park on the way back.

Auckland to Taupo

It constantly amazes me how getting out of Auckland lifts the spirits. It’s not that Auckland is bad it just gets large city oppressive. Well, bugger off traffic and people we are off to Taupo. The road is mostly through farming areas, heavy on the dairy, light on much else. Taupo itself is surrounded by forest, which is a contrast to cows.

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Lake Taupo

The lake is the thing, large and blue with volcanic mountains on the backdrop. Taupo is very big on outdoor sporting stuff and on our arrival every car or person seemed to be connected to a mountain bike. Taupo is also a bit of a party animal, lots of restaurants and bars together with attendant backpackers. However even the most fueled up party person could not be impressed by the natural beauty of this place.

Taupo to Wellington

After returning to winter conditions in Taupo it was nice to hit the road toward Wellington, especially since the forecast was for sun and warmth. The main highway out of Taupo is essentially a goat track by normal road standards. Since there are few places to pass speed is governed by the slowest vehicle in front (normally a camper van or mentally challenged Toyota Prius driver). Does give the chance to view the mountains and lake which really are beautiful.

Plateau

Brown Twiggy Stuff

Unfortunately this gives way to alpine plateau which is brown with twiggy things growing on it as far as the eye can see. Would be ok but there is someone up ahead herding their goats with a camper van moving at the pace of the slowest animal. Once off the plateau into green undulating country which is initially pretty but at goat walking pace gets very repetitive. After what seems like several days we hit the road into Wellington. This pretends to be a motorway but also has traffic lights which present significant challenges at 100 km/hr.

Happy Times in Petone

We stay here. Petone has it all, shops called boutiques, gastro pubs, cafes with weird stuff hanging on the walls and Pak ‘n Save. It also has an esplanade with beach, train to Wellington CBD in 15 minutes and, essential in all quality suburbs, an art house movie theater. But there is a mystery attached to Petone and this is it, a surprising volume of the residential stock is really shoddy.

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Petone: Apartment Life

Streets of elderly houses which appear to have had their last maintenance cycle completed in 1960. Unlike gentrified areas in suburbs of a similar type Petone looks like a place where people live to have a life rather than live to support their property dependent. This is a wonderful thing.

Wellington Yah!

So, Wellington has the wind thing and the earthquake thing and the politician thing. All irritating in different ways, but what is not is the CBD urban environment. Wellington is so far ahead of the other major cities (looking at you Auckland and Christchurch) that it’s laughable to even compare them. I will anyway. Auckland – struggling convenience and two dollar shops interspersed with cafes and an occasional “quality retailer”. The quality retailers are mostly confined to easily defensible precincts so their infrequent customers do not have to share space with actual Aucklanders. In terms of urban environment – the things you walk on, touch and see Auckland has mostly covered with black granite and randomly dumped street furniture on it for variety. The efforts at renewal on the harbour are generally either sterile (Viaduct and Wynyard) or just bad (Princess and Queens wharfs). It is a bit mean to focus on Christchurch given the earthquake and rebuild but at least it has a chance to resurrect itself. Unfortunately from what I have seen and heard the CBD is still mostly a wasteland with a few buildings tossed in so everyone can pretend stuff is happening. A work in progress so no further comment.

Wellington

Wellington Central: Fun Times

Ok, so what has Wellington got. No crappy black granite for one. Wellington is organic, it has developed a streetscape consisting of a variety of materials, small parks, lots of public art and people focused spaces. It is intimate but not suffocating. People are rewarded by walking, they see and experience lots of stuff, both weird and traditional. Retail is vibrant, well maintained and even the ordinary shops have an upmarket feel. You will struggle to find a two dollar shop or dodgy convenience store.

Wellington to Whanganui

Once out of Welly the road is ok with a surprising number of passing lanes. This allows you to get to Whanganui quickly. This is a good thing. On the way Otaki has outlet stores, Foxton has a windmill and Levin has car sales yards.

Whanganui

Stop everything and move to Whanganui. This place has everything. A river with a real steam paddle boat. The longest elevator through a rock in the world. The  most affordable beach-side suburb in New Zealand (and Australia and probably the southern hemisphere). Easily the biggest dog food factory in the country. More glass blowers than bureaucrats. As if these advantages aren’t enough the real biggie is this: Whanganui has more epic buildings in two square kilometers  than all the other cities in the North Island (excluding Napier) combined.

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Epic Whanganui

Yes it really is that good. And, as if it couldn’t get better most of these epic buildings are empty. So heaps of room for every one to move into.

Whanganui to Chateau Tongariro

Hills and sheep, road mostly goat track per description in Taupo to Wellington except with less traffic. Chateau is a brick pile built in 1929 in the style of a…… Chateau. Has pretensions toward the premium end of market which it kind of fulfills.

Chateau Tongario

Chateau Tongariro: Imposing Brick Pile

Surrounded by mountains with steam coming out and sirens to let you know you have to run really fast when the steam turns to lava. Best thing is watching all the people walk up and down the mountain using stick things to prop themselves up.

Chateau to Auckland

Back across the brown plateau with bush stick things growing everywhere. No traffic until we hit the main highway into Taupo where we had to put up with the usual slow crawl. Probably the same goat herding camper vans we met on our way down. Taupo to Auckland easy run until usual Auckland traffic jam which is pretty much normal 24/7. It’s almost like the city is saying I’m so important that I can make your travel a misery any time I like and you have to put up with it. Welcome Back.

Slide Show: Pictures Taken Along The Way

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